The Sikaiana atolls just could be the world’s top tropical tourist destination. Four islets conjoined by a barrier reef encircling a lush blue lagoon perforated with thriving corals teeming with marine life.

Glistening white sandy beaches outlining each islet with gentle waves lapping their shores. Cool breeze chills the sun’s gaze as children play by the seaside and grown-ups sitting under the shade of a huge Terminalia nut tree having a yarn and cracking jokes.

But, this touching serene scenario hides the grim reality that the people of Sikaiana struggle with.

Sikaiana is all but forgotten – hardships compounded by geographic isolation, extremely limited government service including poor transportation and worse – being at the forefront against climate change.

It is one of Solomon Islands’ low-lying atolls which sits northeast of the country. Formerly known as Stewart Islands, the atoll has a resident population that fluctuates between 200 and 250 people.

Resilience – but for how long?

“Despite the scales being tipped against us, we Sikaiana people are hardy and resilient in the face of climate change. We are utilising our traditional knowledges which enabled our ancestors to survive the harsh extremes of the environment in the past,” chief Don Teui, 50, said.

“But, our resilience to climate change is only buying us time – a commodity which will one day run out. With climate change and sea level rise, it is inevitable that we would have to leave this atoll eventually,” he said with tears.

School teacher Rose Sapivaka, 60, shares some of the many traditional knowledges to help adapt to changes such as low-flying seabirds indicating bad weather, certain changes in wave and current behaviour warning of huge tsunami-like waves, planting and maintaining mangroves helping save much of the village shore from serious wave damage, nurturing corals in the lagoon, observing cycles of edible marine food helping in sustaining fish supplies and avoid over-exploitation.

More raised houses are being built compared to the traditional ground-floor design with certain trees planted to help as wind barrier as well as shade.

Sapivaka said over the last two decades changes have occurred faster compared to the 1980s and 90s.

Locals share stories of new unpredictable weather patterns, rising sea levels, gardens depleted by seawater intrusion deep inland, land lost to the sea, increasing frequency of illness, chores getting harder especially for women, reduced land fertility, and more.

Sikaiana – an ancient highway intersection

The Sikaiana people are of Polynesian descent whose history boasts voyaging ancestors from Tuvalu, Samoa, Kiribati, Tonga and Tokelau.

The atoll stretches nearly 10km in length and six kilometres at its broadest point. Sikaiana is also a breeding ground for transiting migratory birds with each islet having few giant baobab-like trees hosting these huge sea birds.

Sikaiana people live on the largest islet, the highest point of which is merely around four metres above sea level.

The village faces the lagoon and the few permanent infrastructure include the Anglican church building, the school and clinic. Homes are built using hard pandanus wood, leaves and coconut wood and leaves.

The staple food is fish, swamp taro, bananas and coconut. Rice and other processed foods from the shop are however becoming prolific in today’s meals.

Land as precious as life

Arable land is at the centre of the island, where the people have dedicated to swamp taro gardens – a mosaic of rows of swamp taro beds surrounded by waist-deep mud which have been kept replenished and reusable for generations by composting leaves and rain water.

A decade ago the first report of brine seeping out of holes inland emerged. During high tide seawater has since been creeping through fissures in the limestone base of Sikaiana atoll causing saltwater to damage crops sensitive to high pH levels.

Today nearly a quarter of arable land has reportedly been lost due to this inland saltwater intrusion.

Sea-level rise has nibbled away at the island’s periphery. Sikaiana’s weather coast is a stark picture of this, with the typical cliff-like surfaces exposed along the shore due to wave action.

School teacher Thomas Sapivaka, 65, says traditionally significant landmarks have disappeared.

“Days are hotter and nights colder. With the ongoing difficulty in growing and decreasing fish stock, and endangered fish species, pit against an increasing population, life is harder. Worse, when shipping service to the atolls is very poor, it exacerbates impacts.”

Fr Hugh Blessing Saua, 50, a local priest who did extensive research on Sikaiana’s economics said: “While life in Sikaiana is beautiful, it is not easy in terms of transportation, communication, education and health care services. Sikaiana has severely limited land resources and very poor economic support from Solomon Islands, a developing country that continues to struggle with basic infrastructure.”

New leaders, new hope

The world this month announced USD$300 billion annually by 2035 in climate finance for developing countries – a trickle of which could help Sikaiana.

Newly elected provincial government representative of Sikaiana, Lemuel Kevianga, 40, is pursuing funding and support for community welfare, infrastructure and service projects for Sikaiana.

“We are facing dire impacts on food security, environment, infrastructure development, Sikaiana’s economics and social aspects, and culture. We’re slowly addressing our goals, one of which is the recent deal to have a telecommunication tower installed on Sikaiana.

“Transportation improvement is being worked on, so as education, health care, disaster preparedness and response capacity, empowerment of women and marginalised groups, as we continue pressuring our government, hey – please help us in these areas.”

Relocation, which is a contentious topic, is not out of sight for Hon Kevianga.

“We hope that the recent announcement at COP29 will trickle down to us soon enough to help us relocate before it is too late,” Hon Kevianga said.

For chief Don, he is heartened that the world is showing concern for communities at the front against climate change – but.

“Although it is kind of late, do not let it be even more late. World authorities should hurry up so that these huge funds we see on the news can get to us during my lifetime,” says chief Don.

This is a story grant supported by Earth Journalism Network